Thai archaeologist Tanachaya Tiandee explores the ancient town of Si Thep under the scorching sun

Under the scorching sun, Thai archaeologist Tanachaya Tiandee explores the ancient town of Si Thep, searching for clues to its past. She examines the ruined pagodas, but finds many of them looted or damaged. "The artefacts that reveal the details are missing, leaving a lot of gaps in the history of Si Thep," Tanachaya said.

Tanachaya Tiandee, a Thai archaeologist, works under the blazing sun to explore the ancient ruins of Si Thep, a town that holds many secrets -- and many gaps. For years, looters have plundered Thailand's rich heritage sites like Si Thep, taking away many artefacts to foreign lands. The kingdom is now seeking to recover those stolen cultural treasures.

"Si Thep has revealed its structures, but not its artefacts that could reveal more details. Many stories remain untold because of this," Tanachaya told AFP.

"It's like a missing puzzle piece."

Si Thep, which dates back to 1,500 to 1,700 years ago according to archaeologists, may be added to UNESCO's cultural world heritage list this week -- the first Thai site since 1992.

The town flourished for centuries as a trading hub under the influence of various cultures, until it started to decline in the late 13th century, as stated in the Thai government's submission to UNESCO.

Tanachaya, 33, who dreamed of becoming a Thai Indiana Jones since she was young, carefully digs up the ancient stone buildings, trying to reconstruct the history of Si Thep, which is located about 200 kilometres (120 miles) north of Bangkok.

But she faces a daunting challenge, as at least 20 objects are known to have been stolen from the site, with 11 of them identified in museums in the US.

The actual number of looted objects is likely much higher, due to poor documentation.

Now Tanachaya and her team have their own mission: to uncover the secrets of Si Thep and bring back its lost treasures.

The issue of repatriating cultural heritage from foreign museums has been a contentious one for many countries, including Thailand. Since 2017, the Thai government has set up a committee to track down and reclaim Thai antiquities that are displayed abroad. However, the committee has faced many challenges and obstacles, such as the lack of clear legal evidence, the reluctance of foreign museums to cooperate, and the sensitivity of diplomatic relations. As a result, the committee has adopted a cautious and low-profile approach, avoiding any confrontation or pressure on the host countries. The director-general of Thailand's Department of Fine Arts Phnombootra Chandrachoti said that the committee would not rush or force anything, but rather seek mutual understanding and respect. He cited the example of the Norton Simon Museum in California, which owns nine Thai artefacts, some of which may have originated from Si Thep park, a historical site in Thailand. The museum claimed that it had acquired the artefacts legally and that it had taken good care of them. The museum also said that it had not received any official request from the Thai government, but that it would be willing to discuss the matter if contacted.

Tourism dilemma

The historical site of Si Thep, which dates back to the ancient Khmer empire, is a candidate for UNESCO World Heritage status. However, this could pose a challenge for Thai historians and conservationists, who have to balance the benefits and risks of increased tourism.

According to official statistics from 2019, only one percent of the visitors to Phetchabun province, where Si Thep is located, were foreigners. The Thai government hopes that UNESCO recognition will attract more international tourists and boost the economy, which relies heavily on the tourism sector for almost 20 percent of its GDP.

However, there are also worries about the preservation of the site, which is already fragile and vulnerable to looting. The head of Si Thep Historical Park, Sittichai Pooddee, said that the site can only accommodate around 2,000 tourists per day without damaging its integrity. "We will try to balance things. We will not over-promote," he said.

Another problem is the lack of information and artefacts that can tell the story of Si Thep and its role in the Khmer civilization. Many items have been stolen or lost over time, leaving gaps in the historical record. Thai historian Tanongsak Hanwong said that this makes it difficult to satisfy the curiosity of tourists and to showcase Thailand's rich heritage to the world. "Artefacts dignify Thailand's past civilisation, and when some of the parts are missing, we get stuck and we can't tell important pieces of the story to the world," Tanongsak said.

At the serene complex of Si Thep, local visitors admire a finely carved wall of a pagoda. "It's the heritage that belongs to Thai people, and that we are proud of. It would be a pity not to get it back," said Chaowarat Munprom, a 66-year-old retiree.